GRWE Guidelines for Greyhound Care...

When I get to my new home...

I've probably never been in a house before and things will be strange. I may be tense, possibly withdrawn. Be sure I "empty" before entering. I may be afraid, though you may not notice, this is normal. At some point I'll pick a spot to lie down (on an old blanket or whatever). Let me remain quiet unless I come to you. Be patient, gentle and speak soft, soothing one-word assurances such as "good" and "easy". Speak "No" more strongly for unacceptable behaviour.

If you do not want me in a certain room use your hand as a traffic cop does and say, firmly but gently, "No". Stay that way until I get the message. Repetition and softness are the keys to my learning. I like comfort so start to block me now from the sofa if you do not want me on it and show me where to lie, on what soft surface. Mirrors, fireplace glass, French doors reflect my image. This may perplex me - "Who is the other dog?" Let me explore.

Time my feeding (portion feeding) and remember the hand that trains is the hand that feeds. I will also start bonding at feeding time, so others may want to share in this at first, but it is best for one person eventually to do the feeding. Time my duty trips close to mealtime (usually within one hour before).

Feed twice a day with high quality dog food, some oil and table scraps. I may startle easily at first - don't sneak up, come from the front. I'd love a big rawhide bone for my teeth. You may have to show me how to hold it.

Speak softly. I'll always hear you unless I'm asleep.

(Depending on space, area, experience etc. the following comments are suggestions for starting out) -

I may be very afraid for the first few nights. The sounds, smells and shadows are all new to me. I may fuss. Reassure me with words and your closeness. If you let me into your bedroom, I'll quickly settle down. Our closeness and scent are my security in this bewildering environment. Remember, once you allow this you have committed. Like all learned behaviour this is how I'll respond and what I will expect to be allowed to do.

If not allowed in your bedroom, please keep me nearby and develop my confidence with words of assurance.

At first I may stare ahead and seem unresponsive. Remember, I'm undergoing stress adjusting as you probably are too. Quiet and calm is the way to go. A light and gentle massage all over (paws and all) with soothing words is great for both of us (try not to pat).

When it is duty time, let me loose if this is safe in an enclosed area. Otherwise, use an 8-foot lead and training collar. After I have done my 'duty' praise me with "good", a light pat and "let's go and eat". I am beginning to learn to please you and stay with you and know that you will reward me for acceptable behaviour.

For athletes extras are rarely allowed. I'll fatten up a little on my own and will probably need to when I first come to you. But, remember, overfeeding causes problems later on and will be harmful.

Underfeeding is also harmful and can result not only in physical problems but problems in behaviour (such as the stealing of food). A good rule of thumb for weight is that you should be able to feel my ribs but not see them. Also, the veterinarian you should take me to soon after you bring me home, can advise you as to the amount of weight I should or should not gain and can further advise you on amounts of food I should receive daily.

If I am asleep, please don't startle me. I may make a "grumph" if you do as I would to my kennel mate. Over time I'll adjust to a soft intrusion.

I'm a puppy at heart and a runner (very swift). Unlike other breeds I rely mostly on sight. I cannot easily find my way back as scent-oriented pups can so do not let me loose where I may lose sight of you or you of me. You will not be able to catch me if I start to run so do not let me loose where I can escape, even unintentionally.

I don't know what traffic is. I'll be easily distracted by all the sights and sound in my new world. My safety, my life depend on your wisdom, care and understanding. Never allow me to be loose where I might chase across traffic.

Ordinarily a dog is trained to heel, sit, stay, down and recall (the most difficult). I shall try to be a polite dog if you teach me. The most important training is to have me return to you after release no matter where we are. Good books are available on training or I may be taken to 'Obedience Classes' - consult your veterinarian.

How to teach a 35 mile-per-hour (50-60lb) puppy 'Recall'. Keep me on a lead and collar at all time when in the open and when training (playtime is another thing). I'll gradually leave 'high jinks' behind though the 'flight instinct' is prevalent and training me may be hard at first because of the flood of information I'm trying to sort out. It is helpful to whistle or call me whenever I am fed so that I associate your call with the reward of food. Eventually, the reward of praise is sufficient. Do not let me loose in an unfenced area until you are absolutely sure I will return on call.

With your patience and devotion I'll surprise you and respond with more in kind. Then we'll know I've come in FIRST.

ID Tags...

With the increasing numbers of greyhounds and other breeds being micro-chipped, it seems appropriate to remind existing, and prospective new owners that is a legal requirement for each and every dog to have the telephone number and address of its owner on its collar whilst in a public place. Owners can be prosecuted for failing to comply with this very simple rule. The fact that the dog is micro-chipped is not a substitute for an ID tag!

At GRWE, we strive to promote responsible dog ownership, and when we complete the rehoming paperwork at the kennels, we ask our prospective new owners to sign up to some agreed conditions of ownership. One of the requirements on our rehoming form, is that new owners agree to the dog wearing an ID tag. We would therefore ask that you make sure for your own and the dogs safety, that your dog wears an ID tag whenever it's in a public place - Thank you.

Greyhound Care...

Greyhounds do make the most wonderful pets, but it is important to bear in mind one or two things.

During their racing life on registered tracks, they see only other Greyhounds, and therefore, when they come out into the big wide world, they are fascinated by the different shapes a dog can be, and alas, sometimes think that a little dog is something they have been trained to chase. It is therefore IMPERATIVE the they are kept on the lead for at least a month or two, and possibly three, until they have got used to seeing small dogs about.

Greyhounds are not fighting dogs, and any dog that shows a tendency in this direction is banned from racing for life. Therefore, breeders are very careful not to breed from any animal with a belligerent tendency. However, they ARE trained by man to chase the small moving object - especially if it runs AWAY. This is why it is most important to keep the dog on the lead at first. This is no hardship to the dog, as they are used to being exercised on the lead and they can run loose in your own garden.

You can do ANYTHING with a Greyhound with love and guidance. They are like a highly-bred racehorse - if you bully them they go to pieces, but with love they will do anything you want of them, they are so anxious to please you, but first you must show them what you want of them. Your Greyhound has probably been with other greyhounds and may miss the company initially. Therefore, it is important from the very first day to establish that he/she will have to be left alone for periods, perhaps starting with an hour, then increasing as he/she gains confidence in the new surroundings. Don't make a big fuss of him/her before you go out; tell him/her you are going to 'town', 'work' (or whatever other phrase you choose), put him/her on his bed and reduce your contact so that he/she is not suddenly parted from your immediate affection.

In Racing Kennels, Greyhounds are taken by the collar from kennel to paddock etc. In other words, they are not trained to come to command, but it is amazing how quickly they learn. If they are dogs that have been passed on for 'flapping' or rabbiting, they may have a little more idea, but in most cases we do not know their names, so we cannot expect them to respond.

Do not try to cram too much into their little minds at once - give them time to learn these new ways and very soon you will have a relaxed and very affectionate dog. For a Greyhound coming from a racing kennel, going into a home is rather like you or I landing on the Moon! A completely different way of life! However, Greyhounds are very adaptable and as most of them come off the track at 3 years old, they are young enough to quickly take up their new life.

Most areas have dog training classes and this is a very good idea - not only will he be trained to obey, but will see all sorts of other dogs, and thereby get used to the different breeds. However, if you do go to dog training classes, do not expect your Greyhound to "sit". Very few Greyhounds do this, but will happily stand or lie, like a Trafalgar Square lion.

Do NOT leave your Greyhound tied up outside shops! There are so many people looking for Greyhounds for the wrong reason i.e. to race on independent tracks when the dog has become unfit for registered racing, or even to sell for vivisection. Greyhounds are valued subjects for this - having perfect bone structure and being used to being handled.

Greyhounds make ideal pets for the older person - they are very quiet in the home and do not bark and rush around. The discipline of kennel life stands them in very good stead, and therefore their very own bed in a draught-free corner is the most important item. Having had their walk, they will take to their bed and sleep! In fact, they are really very lazy dogs and do not need miles and miles of exercise. They are sprinting dogs and two or three half-hour walks a day will keep them very happy. Once you have passed the first few week's teething troubles, you will have a most wonderful pet, which spends his/her life trying to please you.

Getting to know your dog...

Some rescue greyhounds are very depressed at first and may appear to you to be very uninteresting. Your dog may just be content to "plod" along beside you for a walk - and then just sleep. It is one of the great joys of owning a greyhound to watch his character develop as he gets to know you and the family - and to understand that he has a place in the daily routine.

Others are lively and friendly straight away - and will love to be with you and share in all that you are doing and everywhere you go. The greatest danger for these is the possibility of developing separation anxiety. Work needs to start immediately on establishing that he can be left on his own for varying periods of time and he will remain safe with you in this loving new home.

Avoiding Separation Anxiety...

Separation anxiety is one of the most common reasons for the adoption of a 'rescue' dog to fail. Ideally, you will have a couple of days set aside to settle your new dog; this should be used to establish a routine for him.

If possible, take him into your home in the morning rather than later in the day and have ready the place where he will sleep.

No matter how thrilled you are with your dog, be sure to use these first few days to set down some rules. He will need to learn who his 'pack leader' is and what his boundaries are. Establish the base line that he can expect, and be clear about ground rules as well as showing him a welcome and reassurance. There will be all the time in the world to lavish affection on him once he has gained confidence in his new surroundings.

Take him for a walk on a lead and, use a muzzle if you have been advised to. Give him a small feed and take him out to spend a penny about an hour afterwards - keep him on the lead in the garden for the first few days. Show him to his bed, perhaps with a biscuit, then leave him and shut the door. Do the same a couple more times during the day and by night time he will have some idea what he is expected to do. If he whines or scratches, resist the temptation to go to him immediately (unless he is extremely distressed). Try a few times staying out of the room and, when he whines, tap the bottom of the door with your hand and say "No".

Save any treats for when he has done something you require of him - he will soon learn to associate the actions. Never chastise roughly. Your tone of voice should be enough to make him realise that you are not pleased. Chastising more than a few seconds after he has done something you would prefer he didn't, is not usually effective - he will not associate your anger with his action of some minutes ago.

If your dog already has a separation anxiety problem, an indoor kennel can be very helpful. Your adopting group should be able to access one for you to borrow. It is essential that you understand how to use one - it must never be seen to be a punishment, rather a place for your dog to retreat to for a bit of peace and a treat. John Fisher's book "Why Does my Dog?" has an excellent chapter on the use of indoor kennels and, used properly, they are invaluable for anxious dogs, sick dogs and keeping dogs and toddlers apart. But it should be stressed that they are not a substitute for training your dog.

Bedding...

Greyhounds love their beds - something soft, such as a duvet that they can curl upon/in, but can also lie with legs stretched out straight as they sometimes like to do. If he has been in racing kennels, it will be second nature to him to jump up onto his bed, so your best sofa - or someone's bed - will do just fine! You will need to teach him gently if this is not allowed - he will not understand if you chastise him for doing what he has been expected to do for the previous years.

Teeth...

Most rescue dogs are found to have badly-coated teeth, with sore infected gums. Greyhound Rescue West of England will already have given your dog veterinary attention. Once the infection has been treated, the teeth will often improve dramatically. Chews will also help and when he has gained confidence in you, he will allow you to gently brush his teeth. Many greyhounds are so accustomed to being handled that they will stand or lie quietly for any such attention.

Feet...

Nails will have been cut while in our care. Your greyhound may appear to have very long nails, which need to be cut. When there has been a degree of neglect that may be the case. But the "quick" grows very low down and it is advisable to seek veterinary advice before attempting to cut them yourself. Long nails can cause a dog to walk awkwardly, affecting both his comfort and his demeanour whilst exercising. Once the feet have been checked and nails cut if necessary regular exercise on a hard surface is the best way to keep them healthy.

A neglected dog that has been kept in a run without any exercise, will have very soft pads, which may cause him discomfort when you start to take him out. He may also appear to be 'down on his pasterns' and appear to have long, flat feet. He is not in pain - walking on hard surfaces can help a little. Providing that they are not sore, gentle massage with some surgical spirit will help to harden them initially.

Injuries...

Your greyhound may have been taken off the track for many reasons. Apart from losing consistently, the most common reason is through injury. The centrifugal forces on the sharp bends of the track put enormous strain on the dog's wrist joints and on the toes. Damage can also be caused by collisions with other dogs, or even with the fence if the dog has been knocked off the track.

Old injuries will not always be obvious and so there is the potential for arthritis later in life. But we are prone to arthritis too, so let us assume you will have grown so attached to your dog that if it happens you will seek the best advice available to ensure his comfort.

Collars...

You will probably have purchased a smart, wide greyhound collar for your new dog - he will, in any case, need to have something on which to place his identity disc. Always remember that greyhounds can have muscular necks and comparatively small heads: some of them are past masters at backing out through their collars. This may not be apparent for many weeks, but if it is going to happen, it will surely be in a moment of great excitement (or a moment of panic for a nervous dog) - when to have your dog loose will put him or some person or other animal in grave danger.

Metal neck chains are too harsh for a greyhound's neck, but 'combi' collars (that are made of wide braid with a small adjustable chain link that will tighten up and not slip over his head if he suddenly 'backs-out') are ideal until you know him well.

Exercise...

Greyhounds are sprinting dogs, so they do not need to walk for miles every day. It is no hardship for him to be exercised on a lead, as it is what a racing dog is used to but he does need to let off steam and have a gallop. Unless you are fortunate enough to have a large enclosed area for this, it will be some weeks before you can let him off the lead.

When you do, be sure that it is in an area that he is familiar with and be certain that there is nothing in view that he may be interested to go and investigate. The speed at which he will run will truly alarm you initially and as he runs away from you, you may have the feeling that you may never see him again! Unless something is in the distance for him to chase, you will find that he will circuit and return to you - usually looking very pleased with himself and seeking your approval. You will be so relieved that he has turned round, that you will give it wholeheartedly.

Until you are sure that he is safe with other small animals, it is only sensible to use a muzzle - Greyhound Rescue West of England can advise you on the purchase of a suitable one.

Never forget that farmers have the right to shoot any dog found in a field with stock - they do not have to be chasing.

All dogs thrive on a routine, and after he has had his exercise, you will be amazed at the amount of time that your greyhound spends sleeping. He may, occasionally, sleep with his eyes open, so try not to startle him and ensure that children know not to disturb him. It is yet another of the joys of having this kind of dog to know that he is easily satisfied.

Feeding...

This is one of the most difficult areas to advise on - many people already know how and what they want to feed their dog, based on past experience. The huge range of food products on the market makes the choice even more difficult. Greyhounds have fairly sensitive stomachs (though you may not believe this if you have a confirmed 'binraider'!) and some of the top-quality tinned foods can be too rich for them. It is generally agreed that they will benefit from a small breakfast in addition to the main meal of the day. The times will vary depending on your routine and circumstances.

When your greyhound first arrives with you, he will need to adjust to a change in diet and this might involve some diarrhoea as he makes the transition.

Rescue Dogs and Food...

A rescue dog may have been starved or lived on the streets. Dogs like this face the fear of death through starvation every day. We have no idea what that must feel like. They can become very possessive / greedy about food. If this is not handled properly aggression over food may develop, which can have sad repercussions for both owner and dog.

Please follow these rules to help your dog learn to be around food safely.

Some greyhounds coming out of racing may display these problems. They are kept at minimum weight to race. Every piece of food in their kennel has been for them. So they have to learn that you are the person who makes decisions about what they eat and when they eat.

Most of this is common sense. Imagine how your behaviour would develop if you faced constant threat of starvation and had to compete for food. Help your rescue dog to live happily for the rest of his life by following these simple rules.

Skin...

Many rescue dogs have bare patches, especially on the bony prominences if they have been lying on concrete or dirty bedding. Many, too, will have sparse hair on their rumps. Apart from general neglect, this may be the result of bouts of flea allergy or even Mange in the past. With good food and a soft bed your dog's coat will soon improve, but some will always have a tendency to bareness when they moult in the summer months.

Children...

Greyhounds usually love children, but always observe the precautions one would sensibly take about not leaving a small child alone with a dog, and particularly a new dog.

Though greyhounds are generally good on the lead, we would not advise you to let a child take the family dog out - or even to hold the lead while you are out walking. Always remember that you have a strong, fast animal which, if he decided to dash across the road after a cat or squirrel, would take a child with him. Until you are very sure of your dog, never allow the risk of this tragedy to occur.

Homing a dog to a home where there are young children

When any dog enters a new home, whether it is a puppy that the parents have bought, or whether it is an older rescue dog, it is important that parents put the following rules in place to help keep their children safe.

Just like us dogs sometimes don’t like to have their space invaded. Just like us the nicest dogs can have an off day. A dog that walks away or growls has had enough interaction. If we don’t notice these subtle requests, a dog has only one more way of asking us to leave him alone.

Ask children to respect your dog’s space and help keep them safe.

Cats & other small animals...

Not only greyhounds chase cats - so do many other dogs. A greyhound's instincts have been deliberately cultivated since birth and they are very speedy runners.

Introducing Greyhound to Cats...

All breeds of dogs are interested in chasing cats - greyhounds are so much faster that they stand a far greater chance of catching them! Yet many greyhounds settle with cats and poultry and it is one of the most important issues to deal with when you first adopt a dog. Always be aware that although your dog may be completely safe with his own family cat - or even rabbit - off territory he may view anything that runs as fair game - so be prepared!

Your greyhound may be classed as 'cat-safe' when he first arrives with you, but it is IMPERATIVE that sensible precautions are taken until you are confident of your dog's temperament. A separate information leaflet on this subject is available from your Home Checker.

How should we introduce a greyhound to a cat?...

IT IS NOT ADVISABLE TO LEAVE YOUR GREYHOUND
ALONE WITH THE CAT IN THE INITIAL STAGES

If you have a keen greyhound, it can take some considerable time before you can trust him/her with a cat.

This step may well depend on the cat's willingness to co-operate. Some cats will spend many months watching the dog from the highest and furthest place possible; others might be willing to give the newcomer a blow to show who's boss. It should not be forgotten that we have two temperaments to work with in this introduction.

If a cat is not used to dogs in its home, there is a risk that it might pack its bags and leave home. It is essential to ensure that the cat has a collar and identity disc to cover this possibility.

Your greyhound will accept your rules, and accept your cat as a member of the family. Nevertheless, a warning should be sounded:

Cats outside the home may well still be regarded as fair game for a chase and possible attack, therefore...

ALL NECESSARY PRECAUTIONS SHOULD BE TAKEN

Your Sight-hound and Other Dogs...

Your Sight-hound (Greyhound or lurcher) will have spent much of its time in kennels with other sight-hounds. (Greyhounds may have spent all of their life with only other greyhounds)

It is likely that it will find other types of dogs completely new and different, and even something to be scared of or to growl at.

Here are a few tips to help you with this problem.

A Recommended Book...

Pet Owner's Guide to the Greyhound by Anne Finch. Published by Ringpress. See the GRWE Catalogue.

Further Help...

Should you have any questions, please contact your GRWE Home Checker, or call the GRWE General Helpline number on the number below.